Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Reflection: Traces of Feminism, A Fresh Mood of Optimism...
Let’s not get too ahead of ourselves… Although the F/W 2018 shows are about to begin, here is a look back at the mood of fashion as spring and summer approach.
Ah, the fashion cycle. Every six months, fashion students and industry makers sit on the edge of their seats or desks, eagerly awaiting the definitive runway collections that showcase the major themes and trends for the upcoming season in four major cities: New York, London, Milan and Paris. With NYFW a mere two days away, we are about to get a glimpse of what the most dominant looks for fall and winter fashion of next year that will begin to emerge.
As the industry is always churning out new creativity six months ahead of time, it’s easy to get caught up living in the future and lose footing of the here and now. After all, spring and summer of 2018 have yet to happen. So, wouldn't it be wise to hit the rewind button and give ourselves a refresher course on what lies ahead—along with sunshine and warmer days? I think yes.
The two major takeaways of the shows that occurred six months ago were feminism and optimism. I spent months and months reviewing the collection photos; reading reviews and piecing together mood boards and intricately curating "Notes" on my iPhone. After six months, I have gained a pretty solid and deep understanding of the direction in which fashion is headed next. 2017 was a bit of a dark year for multiple reasons. As fashion often serves as escapism, now more than ever with the power of social media and supermodels that double as influencers and marketing gold, high fashion now has more potential and means to join the conversation and carefully present attitudes, perspectives and moods that will come to shape the public perspective on a global level. And as we've seen within Hollywood and multiple industries recently, the "Me Too" and "Times Up" movements have made A-List actresses and household names stepping up to the plate inevitable. Fashion has the power to shape societal attitudes and dictate the direction in which humanity is headed, not just creatively. An even more potent underlying power exists—that which seems the industry is only just beginning to explore. Here are two major takeaways from the S/S 2018 collections.
NEW ROMANTICS
Designers clearly had feminism on their minds. Plenty of pink was seen on the runways, accompanied by ruffles, 3-D florals, tulle, and voluminous silhouettes. There was an undeniable sense of romance and embrace of classic femininity. While in the past so many collections have had an androgynous and edgy mood, these flouncy designs are a refreshing change. After taking a Fashion History course last semester and familiarizing myself with centuries and decades worth of fashion evolution, it was clear to me that many designers looked upon the past for inspiration. The ruffled sleeves and ornate details reflected upon 18th and 19th century fashions—think modern day Marie Antoinette.
BUST A MOVE
An interesting new micro-trend appeared on the S/S 2018 runways that is not quite cohesive enough to pinpoint... yet is an obvious theme that has emerged. Multiple collections showcased pieces that emphasized and showcased a part of the female anatomy that always seems to be at the forefront of controversy: breasts.
"Free The Nipple" has been an ongoing backlash against Instragram's censorship, while public breastfeeding has been another noteworthy subject capturing both the media and public's attention at large in recent years. The thing about…ok, for the sake of this article, let’s just call them boobs…”Boobies” are a paradox within themselves. On one hand, they are a very sexualized part of the female body; they have been portrayed as a tool of female seduction and sex appeal for centuries. While both men and women have nipples, a general attitude of taboo has emerged throughout time regarding a woman who chooses to expose her chest. On the other hand, breasts are a vital component of human nature at its innermost core: they provide nourishment to babies; arguably one of the most beautiful and majestic things of human anatomy. The issues that have arisen recently regarding feminism within the last year surely had many creative directors thinking of ways to express their stance on feminism, and it did not surprise me to see this unique and slightly bizarre silhouette that fashion hasn't been too familiar with—at least not in recent years.