Invite Only: Life in the Front Row
*Article from Lexington Line Autumn/Winter 2024 Issue, pages 24-26
Check out the full issue here
As you’re directed to your seat, you feel the bustling energy of the people around you. Even though you’ve done this many times, the excitement is still surreal. As the lights dim and the music turns on, you’re part of something greater than yourself.
We’ve all heard the phrase that fashion is expression. For designers, it’s expressing a feeling into something concrete. For journalists, it’s expressing a perspective. For models, it’s expressing someone’s expression.
But what is it like to witness all of this? To be so close to this world that you’re invited to see the newest designs before they hit the market, or to feel the texture of luxurious fabrics brushing against your skin?
The front row is seen as it’s very own world, a dream if you’re invited. It’s exclusive, and only the most adored celebrities and fashion icons are allowed in this sacred space.
Fashion shows date back to the 1860s. English designer Charles Frederick Worth, considered “the father of haute couture”, started this culture by introducing live models to showcase his collections.
The front row is a communication strategy -a place of prestige and recognition that also communicates something to people watching from the comfort of their own homes.
“If a rapper, influencer, or K-pop start I follow and identify with is attending a show, I’ll identify with that brand,” says Laudares.
In an era where fame spreads rapidly thanks to social media, brands need to understand the type of consumer that follows these influencers. This is where all the market and consumer research and negotiations with celebrities come into play -it all connects with the runway and who’s siting front and center.
“Brands want to put their clothes on influencers, who are now also seen as celebrities, because they’re opinion makers,” Laudares says. “When you see someone you identity with, it influences your clothing direction.”
From the moment we’re born, we’re taught to imitate.
“Imitation is a psychological behavior in fashion,” Laudares explains.
You might think fashion shows are entirely formal, and this, to an extent, true. People invited to sit in the front row receive orientation, and it’s a known fact that they’re supposed to maintain a poised position.
In turn, all this formality comes with chaos, and paradoxically, informality.
Guilherme de Beauharnais, a fashion editor for Harper’s Bazaar Brazil, says the front row is important because it plays a part before the collections are displayed to the crowd. It's not just a place where VIPs reunite to show support for a certain brand; it is also used by fashion lovers to share admiration and passion for this complex industry.
In this era, shows were more intimate, with few guests. They were casual get-togethers during tea time at ateliers and maisons, rather than the heavily-produced events we see today.
According to fashion researcher and professor Tetê Laudares, the left side of the catwalk is reserved for people working in the industry, such as press members and brand CEOs. The right side is reserved for clients and celebrities.
Influencers are now joining traditional celebrities in the front row. Brands treat them as A-listers. 23-year old Emma Chamberlain, known for her fashion and lifestyle content online, has attended fashion shows and The Met Gala since 2019.
Influencers and celebrities “invading” the fashion world can be a controversial topic. Some people are quick to criticize this, saying they don’t have the right to a front-row seat.
“Sometimes when big celebrities attend, it can feel like it’s all about them and not so much about the clothes,” she adds.
“Before the show starts, you can take a walk around the space. You don’t have to automatically sit down when you get there,” Beauharnais says. “People usually look at the scenery and, of course, the front row to see the names of the celebrities that’ll be there.”
Beauharnais explains that these days, fashion show VIPs have different roles. Events are bigger than ever, so brands are inviting more people to the front row.
When fashion show culture started, only a lucky few got to see the new collections. Today, it’s much more than that. It’s not only meant for brands to communicate with the consumer, but for fashion leaders and employers to come together.
The editor has also seen guests run to the front row once a show has ended to retrieve invitations left behind by celebrities like Anna Wintour and Penelope Cruz.
“Nobody imagines that guests fight for these invites to take home as souvenirs. It’s very interesting to see because it’s like they perform an X-Ray to see who’s going,” Beauharnais says. “The post-show is an interesting anecdote and social experiment.”
The first row isn’t necessarily the best location to see the show, he says—what’s even better is the feeling of honor he gets when he’s invited to participate.
For VIPs, fashion shows can be hectic, exciting, and amusing. This intricate culture has evolved over time, and it seems like it won’t die down anytime soon.
Even though invites are only given to the most prestigious high-end consumers, influencers, journalists, and celebrities, the point of this culture is to contribute to a brand’s identity. As exclusive as the front row is, it somehow connects us.