Letter to the Creative Director of Pyer Moss

Dear Kerby Jean-Raymond, Creative Director of Pyer Moss,

I saw what happened the other day. I saw what you had to say about the Business of Fashion 500 Gala. I saw what you and the rest of the “diversity” group had to say. I saw your incredibly well-written and inspiring Medium post. I saw your Instagram statement.

Now here’s what I have to say:

I’m not an African American or black, so I cannot say that I have ever experienced, nor will I ever face the discrimination and disrespect that you have faced in your life. But I am a brown POC. I have felt a similar air of exclusivity attached to the fashion industry. We see it through the esteemed editors, the top models, the revered runway collections, the elite front rows and the parties. No one can deny that it is both visibly and invisibly a part of the industry.

It is appalling that these publications are so blind to their faults and misguided versions of inclusivity. A black gospel choir? For what reason was that at the BoF 500 Gala? The gala was a supposed to be about embracing diversity, but it was odd of them to include a church choir to get the point across that “diversity is not a trend.” Really? BoF appropriates culture under the guise of being inclusive, profiting off those who are slighted at every turn in an attempt to help companies who need to look racially sensitive and “woke”.

As you said in your Medium piece, it is clear to anyone who comprehends racial issues in America that it is not about the choir. It is the blatant disregard and disrespect shown to you and your peers. You were asked to speak on panels with others and finally agreed to a talk held by BoF last year. You agreed under the premise that it would be more of a TED Talk about your personal life experiences. But on your flight to London, you were informed at the very last minute that it would be a panel you never signed up for. You were asked to be one of the cover stars for BoF 500. Being kindly transparent, you divulged all of your upcoming projects to the editorial director, only to be overlooked and used for your information. And then there was the audacity of being asked in the very same sentence to break the news of your appointment to Reebok, knowing you are one of the most influential designers to come out of New York. It is clear to anyone who has read your story understands why you felt insulted and upset during the gala. You had every right to be mad before, during, and after it.

As people of color, we have to work 100 times harder. There are many instances in which our cultures get appropriated just to be called “art” regardless of the offensive violation. There are many cases in which hard-working minority community members’ praise and work gets swept under the rug. And on the chance that we are deemed “worthy enough” to have a seat at the table, we are conditioned not to speak up since we are lucky enough to be there. And we do not speak. We do not, because we deem ourselves fortunate enough to be accepted. We should not HAVE to be accepted. We ARE accepted already. We are not looking for validation by anyone but our own.

Obviously, this problem persists beyond this industry, but I believe that fashion is one of the least progressive industries when it comes to improving diversity. As shown time and time again, when people in this business speak out, they are silenced or considered hostile. Slapping a diversity-positive message on a $500 tee shirt for one season is not enough. This is not a trend; this is our reality.

Your time to speak out against this trend of diversity was during the gala, and you did just that. Your Instagram story and Medium post explained it all. “This is some insulting shit. Then to be excluded in the call out of who they deem making changes as it is pertains to inclusion is wild. Instead, they mentioned everyone who is not,” you wrote on Instagram. (include link to Instagram post)

In Medium, you said, “Diversity and Inclusion is a trend for these folks. BoF 499, I’m off the list… But — me getting checks is not going to stop me from checking you… But I’m not with the explicit exploitation of our plight, culture, and struggles for the benefit of your bottom line… I’m offended that you gas-lighted me, used us, then monetized it and then excluded us in the most disrespectful way to patronize companies that need ‘racist offsets’.”

I’ve read the apology/response from BoF Editor-in-Chief, Imran Amed, and I have to say that as a brown person, it is insulting as hell. There are not many brown people in this industry. And as Amed is one of the few top influential brown people in the industry, his half-hearted attempt to try to assuage you while defending his actions is enormously disappointing. Being one type of person of color does not excuse him from ever appropriating another person of color’s culture. It does not justify his actions or words by being gay, being Muslim, nor being an immigrant. Amed is supposedly some huge champion of diversity within the industry, even though his publication staff consists of mostly white people. As people of color, we have all gone through similar situations in life one way or another, and have not sold others out, ESPECIALLY NOT OTHER PEOPLE OF COLOR, for the sake of making money.

One person’s struggles of being a person of color do not equate to another person of color’s plights. While we might jointly struggle for being considered “lesser than” whites collectively, a brown or Asian person’s racial experience is vastly different from that of a person coming from black or Hispanic origins, especially in America.

It is very easy to sit back and reap the benefits when people get “selected” for a seat at the top. The fashion industry is cut-throat—as quickly as people are in, they can be thrown back out on their feet. We’ve seen it happen countless times, so why risk it? And while some are complacently continuing their silence, some cannot speak out because of certain situations. We are here for those people too.

It takes courage and humility to speak out about these injustices knowing everyone could shun you for daring to question the status quo. Isn’t inviting you to a diversity gala exactly what you wanted? This gala is what you guys literally asked for, so I don’t see the problem. I don’t know why care so much about a choir. These are just some of the responses you will get from people, including some reading this letter right now.

Fashion has a long way to go, but it starts now. Your opinion is one that many people share. Thank you for speaking out on the issues that you care about without fear, as you always have done. As the outpouring of love in your Instagram comments show, we get what you are trying to say. And we are all behind you, always.

Sincerely,

A Huge Supporter of Your Principles and Your Designs

Please take the time to read the full post penned by Kerby Jean Raymond: https://medium.com/@kerbyjeanraymond.