Paloma Elsesser: The Force & ‘Vogue’ Cover Star Changing Fashion Representation

A statuesque woman reminiscent of a Grecian sculpture draped in delicately carved fabric graces the third cover of American Vogue’s Values 2021 series. The woman is status-quo-defying and forward-thinking Paloma Elsesser. Released to audiences on December 14th, the January cover and cover story sparked a flurry of emotion and congratulations directed towards the plus-size multiracial model. In a year of heavy hearts, racial injustice, social media transparency trends, and calls for heightened representation and diversity, Elsesser embodies the future. In her optimistic vision, it will be an accountable and inclusive one.

Beyond the cultural relevance of Elsesser, this cover achieved another milestone in that it was the first to be styled by a Black woman. Styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, photographed by the great Annie Liebovitz, words by Janelle Okwodu, and Elsesser as the muse, this female powerhouse delivered a stellar interview and beautiful shoot. In addition, Vogue released three other January “Values” covers which showcased 63-year-old non-conforming actress Francis McDormand, Japanese-Haitian-American tennis star and activist Naomi Osaka, and Hispanic musical force and culture appreciator Rosalía. This array of strong women holds powerful, yet often untold, stories.

Paloma Elsesser: The Humble Heroin & Multifaceted Muse

The model’s beauty and vocal persona have slowly come out from under the shadows of a competitive and non-inclusive modeling industry. Elsesser was discovered by British makeup artist Pat McGrath when she was forming a campaign for her 2015 beauty line. According to Elsesser, the set and direction of McGrath, another plus-size Black woman, was comforting and made her feel truly beautiful and valued. Since then, Elsesser has been featured on a few covetable magazine covers like international editions of Vogue as well as i-D, The Sunday Times, and now American Vogue.

In addition to her many runway shows and magazine editorials, Elsesser is also the face of campaigns such as Coach, Nike, ASOS, and Glossier. In 2019, Elsesser made her film debut in Uncut Gems and in 2020, she was casted in Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty Show Vol. 2 which streamed on Amazon Prime. In a recent campaign for Fendi in Vogue Italia, Elsesser posed alongside lingerie and fur coat clad plus-size models Ashley Graham, Alva Claire, and Jill Kortleve. Elsesser’s contribution are steps in normalizing plus-size bodies and BIPOC faces.

In the article “Role Model: How Paloma Elsesser Is Changing Fashion for the Better” published in Vogue, the community driven and bubbly Elsesser gets personal. She discussed her upbringing, struggles with identity and imposter syndrome, acknowledgment of the weight of her project participation, and plans for the future. Elsesser’s mother is African American and her father is Chilean Swiss. But growing up, she and her siblings were sent to predominantly white private schools in Los Angeles. Elsesser said, “That was hard—not being able to define myself, existing in a larger body since first or second grade, and not having the privilege of wealth.” When it was time for college, Elsesser enrolled at The New School in New York City majoring in Literature and Psychology. Elsesser said her interests didn’t lie in fashion or modeling until friends convinced her to go down the path. In response to continuous rejection for not having the right look, Elsesser fell into drugs and alcohol. And although she has been sober for many years, the humble realist said, “We tend to view hardship as something with a beginning and an end. I haven’t overcome everything, but I continue to put up a good fight.”

When she reached a state of opportunities and acceptance, Elsesser didn’t feel worthy enough. In an anecdote about her first Fashion Month and time backstage at a Lanvin runway show, she shared that she broke down backstage at the sight of the buzz and models around her. In a comforting and affirming statement that brought everything into perspective for Elsesser, she says assistants told her, “You’re supposed to be here. None of this is the most important thing. It’s what we do after this day that’s important.” The big picture would be how she moved forward and how the world received her. After all, she was a plus-size confident woman standing out from the typical model or celebrity. It would be the conversations, opportunities, and diversity that followed—not just for Elsesser, but for the marginalized as a whole. Consequently, Elsesser booked and walked her first Lanvin show in February 2020 at Paris Fashion Week.

Perhaps the most poignant part of the article is when Elsesser shares the hard truth. She shares that despite her groundbreaking inclusion in many projects, it’s just not enough. One of the select models who worked in person at runway shows and shoots during the COVID-19 pandemic, Elsesser said, “When a size 14 person like myself says no to doing a show, they may not put anyone larger in that show […] My participation isn’t just about me.” Elsesser has worked incredibly hard to be where she is and gain the confidence she once lacked. While she shouldn’t need to feel the weight of saying no to jobs because of how it affects others, she does. She understands that she is one of the lucky ones and has a responsibility to uphold.

There are few successful plus-size models in comparison to sample size models and even fewer that are household names. Ashley Graham, for instance, is the poster child of plus-size models whether she likes it or not. And that is simply irresponsible on the part of the modeling, fashion, and beauty industries. Elsesser is calling for inclusivity and diversity and says she hopes to be someone who helps make that change throughout her career.

**The Gravitas of Vogue’s Pedestal**

The significance of showcasing a plus-size woman on the cover of American Vogue is plain. It reflects the widely supported need for more diverse representation, especially across media. It also shows the publication’s growth towards inclusivity, among recent claims that it treated Black employees and talent poorly. In a recent step, singer Harry Styles was the first man to be on the cover of American Vogue for its December 2020 issue and did so donned in a baby blue ball gown and blazer. The androgynous singer and styling choices, while praised by doting fans, received backlash by conservative activist Candace Owens. She had choice words on her Twitter account, ranting and declaring that we need to “bring back manly men.” This, of course, shows a divide and the necessity to continue pushing past old mindsets and tired archetypes.

However, for many, Elsesser’s cover comes a little too late for a publication like Vogue. While at the forefront of fashion, Vogue is unfashionably late in other arenas. Vogue only first debuted a solo shot of a plus-size model as its cover star in 2017 with Ashley Graham and then followed up in 2020 with plus-size singer Lizzo. For Elsesser’s first American Vogue cover, she is the publication’s first plus-size multiracial cover star. The Vogue Values 2021 lineup of McDormand, Osaka, Elsesser, and Rosalía represent a multitude of talents, demographics, and backgrounds that better represent America. For Anna Wintour—who was just promoted to Chief Content Officer—Vogue, and Condé Nast at large, it is substantial that they are starting to shine a light and give a pedestal to new, diverse talent.

Breaking Boundaries & Crossing Industries: The Larger Significance

Elsesser’s stunning Vogue Values 2021 cover is enough to give you some hope for the future. She is a positive role model, beautiful inside and out, and clearly has big plans to benefit more than herself. But it also transcends the fashion industry and avid fashion fans.

“There shouldn’t be this grand separation between art, culture, fashion, and politics. Not every part of fashion needs to focus on politics and reality—this isn’t CNN—but ultimately, we all have a level of responsibility. What’s the downside of giving visibility to disabled people, putting dark-skinned femmes at the forefront, or prioritizing diverse perspectives?” - Paloma Elsesser for Vogue”

Within the consumer product and media industries, representation matters. This is as true for the beauty industry as it is for the television industry. Picture perfect, skinny, white cis women do not largely reflect the real world, or even America for that matter. The world is a melting pot and the entertainment we watch, images we consume, and products we buy should represent different groups and cultures. More and more people have become adamant in this stance.

For instance, many companies raised their voices in support of Black Lives Matter and justice over quarantine. But consumers raised their voices too and dared those companies to share their statistics of Black representation within their companies. From the 15 Percent Pledge to the Pull Up or Shut Up Challenge, transparency was forced, and the truth revealed the need for companies to alter their practices for the better.

In the entertainment and music industries, the lackluster representation of BIPOC and disabled people is especially prevalent. In 2020, everything from the Oscars and the Emmys to the BAFTAs and the Grammys were called out for their lack of BIPOC nominees, despite the outstanding work and performances. More recently, singer Sia, who is making her directorial debut with Music, received backlash for casting able-bodied and neurotypical dancer and actor Maddie Ziegler as an autistic character.

Today, inclusivity, diversity, authenticity, accountability, and representation are markers for the minimum of acceptable behavior. They are cries for acceptance and chants for justice. Elsesser, as far as we know, is not looking to turn the world on its head. She’s trying to nudge it in the right direction, just as the people who are shining a spotlight on her are. Elsesser’s Vogue cover is not earth-shattering, but it is quietly monumental. It is a step in the right direction and a leap for Elsesser’s career and influence.

See the emotional video of Elsesser unveiling her Vogue cover to her mother and grandmother here.