The Best of A/W 2020 Fashion Month
The A/W 2020 fashion shows were both a celebration and a cautionary tale of the new decade. From glittery frocks and celebrity surprises to face-mask street-style and audience-less shows, there is much to be covered. But for now, here are the “best of’s” to give you an easy read.
Newcomers
One of the more notable NYFW newcomers was Sergio Hudson. Already a fan favorite of Beyoncé, Michelle Obama, Rhianna, and Demi Lovato, this designer finally had his runway debut. There was an homage to the ‘80s and ‘90s in the form of businesswear and eveningwear for the modern woman. Meanwhile, during Milan Fashion Week, there was news buzz about a new partnership. Designer and frequent collaborator Raf Simons has joined Prada as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada. Their first collection will debut for the S/S 2021 show.
Widespread Trends
From left to right: Rodarte, Giambattista Vali, Chloé, Celine, Emporio Armani, Gucci, Proenza Schouler, Burberry, Bottega Veneta, Paco Rabanne, Jason Wu
Across the “Big Four” fashion weeks, there were several F/W trends on display for us to be excited for.
Silhouette: Victorian, capes, Bermuda shorts, statement collars
Color/Pattern: jewel tones, color blocking, plaid
Fabric/Texture: leather, fringe, chainmail, quilting
Quirkiest Show
Source: Vogue
In Paris, a gender-bending dystopian interpretation of Noah’s Ark stampeded the runway. Thom Browne’s co-ed Fall 2020 RTW show displayed eccentric animal headdresses accompanying the collection of an ever-present red, white, and blue palette. The models’ gender could at first only be assumed by their exposed knees below pleated skirts and above argyle socks. Then the herd masqueraded the winter-wonderland atmosphere in pairs; a male and female dressed in exact replicas of the garments. This was both a showcase of humor and of the need for equality.
Best Street Style
From left to right: New York, London, Paris, Milan
The street style of runway attendees, party-goers, and the fashion-obsessed are always exciting additions to Fashion Month. New York, London, Paris, and Milan each had standout moments but with their own special flair. All-over patterned outerwear were just as important in New York as the garments under them. Color-blocked garments and layered outfits also stood out. London attendees opted for more neutral color palettes and classic styles. Trenches, pea coats, and plaid graced the busy streets, all captured by photographer Phil Oh.
Meanwhile, in Paris, there were major Chanel tweed moments to be taken in. Texture and fur were as eye-popping as the silhouettes and colors that attendees chose to don. Ultra casual jeans counterbalanced the ballgowns and luxe looks of the Parisians. Overall, the Milanese street style was more streamlined with less of a focus on outerwear, likely due to the warmer winter weather. Stunning pops of bright color and tiny purses were also on full display.
Coronavirus
Due to the officially declared pandemic, Coronavirus panic spread across Fashion Month. In addition to the face mask-adorned audience members, entire shows were postponed, privatized, or cancelled entirely. During Milan Fashion Week, Armani held a private runway show, sans attendees and displayed via the label’s social media platforms. Several Chinese brands cancelled their shows set to take place within the major Fashion Month cities.
There have also been postponements and cancellations for upcoming Resort 2021 shows including Gucci, Hermès, and Prada. In addition to postponing Shanghai and Beijing Fashion Weeks, Tokyo and Sao Paolo Fashion Weeks have been cancelled.
Celebrity Surprises
Towards the end of Marc Jacobs’ NYFW show, Miley Cyrus walked the runway alongside a male model. Showcasing her toned abs, the singer surprised the audience in a black-ensemble with gloves and a zebra print coat. Miu Miu also had its fair share of celebrity models including Euphoria’s 16-year-old Storm Reid and singer Rita Ora. In floor-length gowns and coats, they perfectly encompassed the ‘40s elegance of the Milan collection. After his Season 8 runway show, Kanye West held a surprise Sunday service in Paris.
Sources: Vogue World & Vogue
Finale
Source: E! Online
It would be unjust to skip over Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2020 Couture show (even if it was a month earlier than Fashion Month). Serving as a curtain call to Gaultier’s 50 year career, this 200+ look runway was the perfect finale. Incorporating past inspirations and trademark pieces, only 50 looks were made completely from scratch, as per his recycling mentality. With a funeral opening scene and multiple performances including one by Boy George, the show grew to be a fashion spectacle. It was the grandest form of theater. And that finale was the start of an unfamiliar and groundbreaking month of fashion.