Seeking Agency: The Modeling Industry’s Culture of Exploitation

The modeling industry is not as glamorous as it seems—we know this. Models are often subjected to exploitation and sexual violence throughout their careers. This has been an issue, unfortunately, since the dawn of fashion shows, commercials and photoshoots. Models are objectified, exploited, or worse, assaulted by those in positions of authority. Countless horror stories have surfaced about this problem.

So, what can be done? Models could report their abusers, right? The reality is models could face losing connections and jobs if they call out someone of authority; many aren’t willing to risk their livelihood in an attempt to bring their abusers to justice. Some don’t even want to relive their abuse or are still stuck in it, and so, they stay silent.

Just in this past year, popular fashion platforms Diet Prada and Shit Model Management have begun sharing some of these models’ stories.

Diet Prada has become the most prominent watchdog for all things fashion. With over 2.5 million followers, Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler have used their platform to share models’ stories and call out designers like Alexander Wang and photographers like Emanuele D’Angelo. Diet Prada’s most recent article, “Celebrity Photographer LIVINCOOL is Accused of Sexual Exploitation,” features the stories of 6 women who were exploited or assaulted by D’Angelo. The Diet Prada editors wrote, “beneath the cool veneer of D’Angelo’s grainy, sun-drenched photos are the untold stories of numerous models who identify themselves as survivors of sexual assault.”

Shit Model Management (SMM) is another outspoken, fashion-focused social media account. The SMM Instagram was established in 2016 and quickly reached virality by posting funny memes about the modeling industry. The account owners of @shitmodelmgmt have remained anonymous to their 244k followers. The account tells models' stories but keeps the victims’ information private. SMM posted a collection of DMs from survivors’ close friends that highlighted inappropriate and violent altercations with Alexander Wang. While Alexander Wang has publicly apologized, and the victims’ case was officially closed, the Wang exposé shined a light on other fashion industry giants who have exploited and abused their models.

Kaia Morgan, Jasmine Wilson, Shania Sanchez, and Jill Dodd are just four of the many models who have experienced the industry’s objectification culture throughout their careers. Jill Dodd, a retired model and author of “The Currency of Love: A Courageous Journey to Finding the Love Within” shared her story about sexual violence and how authoritarian men came to control the lives of countless women. All four of these women experienced the modeling industry’s deep-rooted objectification and abusive culture that is perpetuated by powerful men in the industry.

Kaia is a 20-year-old student at LIM College and a model who has worked for a variety of agencies for over a decade. Kaia claims, “As a model, it is your responsibility to give everything of yourself while on set and do as you are told,” she said. As a woman, you’re taught at a young age, ‘do as you’re told.’ This concept is only worse for models because they not only have to do as they are told, but they have to respect people that may not be respecting them.

Kaia provides insight on the way in which models lack control; she shared a story about how a whole chunk of her hair was cut off during a photoshoot without her consent. She had no say in it, and kept on posing.

“I just had to push through my job,” Kaia said.

20-year-old Jasmine speaks of similar experiences, claiming “In the modeling industry, especially starting at 7 years old, I’ve always been taught to be respectful of my higher-ups and people of authority in the industry,” Jasmine said. Jasmine, who models with different agencies in Los Angeles and New York, has been in the industry for 12 years now. “There’s definitely a rank, and models are on the lower end,” she asserted. When seeing models pose on a billboard or in a magazine, many people might think these models are on top, but behind the scenes, they’re constantly being objectified and exploited.

During a photoshoot last December, a designer introduced one of his friends to Jasmine. “I think he said something along the lines of ‘isn’t she beautiful?’, and then the guy [his friend] looked at me and said, ‘she is beautiful.’ Then the designer said, ‘yeah that’s why I picked her.’” Jasmine felt upset about the way they spoke about her as if she was an object. “I didn’t think it was anything that big until later that night I was like… that was kind of weird. Maybe I should’ve said something back.” Jasmine explained that she felt powerless.

“The modeling industry is one of the most female-dominated industries in the entire world, and we still get treated like absolute shit. You would think that this female-dominated industry would give women a leg up,” Jasmine said.

Shania started modeling about 6 years ago during her freshman year of college. She entered the industry through freelancing, but now works with Eve Castings and Rose Models as a model and dancer. “I think there’s a misconception, for certain artists, that hiring a model means you can do whatever you want in the time frame they work for you,” she said.

Shania was at a music video shoot set in an Airbnb a year ago with five other models. “The scene was set to be all of the ladies dancing and twerking in the kitchen and having a good time,” she said with a smile. She explained that many music artists bring their friends on set to be a part of the videos, or to just watch. “His friend comes up behind me and like, slaps my butt multiple times, like if you can imagine someone just like…” She mimed a fierce grabbing movement with both hands. “Twerking is a dance move. It's a part of hip-hop. It's not an invitation to my body just because it’s sexual in nature,” Shania said.

Shania wanted to leave after that interaction, but because her agency at the time gave her this job, she felt like she couldn’t leave. She explained, “It just ruined my entire experience, I felt like I had to hold back, and I couldn’t leave.”

Models should never feel like they can’t speak up when they are treated poorly. They’re treated like pretty objects that can be bought and sold. Their bodies are used to benefit men and other powerful people in the industry. This has been an issue for decades, and models of all genders—especially women—face awful treatment from men in leadership roles.

“We were young and afraid and had no resources against these powerful men,” said Jill Dodd.

Jill is an entrepreneur and writer, but she is also a survivor. She shared parts of her story and different resources for helping models and others in the industry who face exploitation, abuse, and rape. Some of the things she mentioned may be difficult to read, so let this serve as a trigger warning.

“I modeled for 10 years. I started in L.A., then did modeling in Paris and all over Europe for a year, and then went back to Los Angeles,” Jill said. Jill was a part of the highly established Wilhelmina modeling agency. Unfortunately, she experienced hardships during her modeling career at the hands of powerful and deceiving men in the industry.

“Gerald Marie raped me and sold me,” Jill said solemnly. She encouraged me to look at the various articles written about her story. Gerald was a well-known man in the modeling industry for over 25 years. The New York Times shared an article highlighting Jill and other women who were raped by Gerald when they were teenagers. An investigation has been opened in Paris, but progress has not been made on the survivors’ behalf as the case falls outside of the French statute of limitations.

Jill explained various experiences she had with multiple managers, and she described horrible events that occurred behind the scenes of the glamorous modeling industry. “One of my agents in Paris raped me and at one point I was sold to an arms dealer. The other manager I was with would rape girls and sell them to Jeffery Epstein,” she disclosed with remorse. “There are a lot of girls that the agencies would send to Europe to model, yet they were intercepted at the airport in Milan or Paris, kidnapped, and sold as sex slaves.” This not only shows the innate objectification culture within the modeling industry but the industry’s ties to human trafficking. Until speaking to Jill, I was unaware that this issue is so deeply rooted in the modeling industry.

As we consume media exposing these issues, it is our job to be aware of this problem and educate each other on how to help survivors heal and bring their abusers to justice.

According to Statista, 406,970 women are survivors of rape or sexual assault, and that only includes the reported cases. The Rape, Abuse & Incest National Network (RAINN) shared a study that states, “Only 230 out of every 1,000 sexual assaults are reported to police. That means about 3 out of 4 go unreported.” The network also explained that over 20% of survivors who do not report to police fear retaliation and that “13% did not believe the police would help.” As the modeling industry is female-dominated, it is important to realize just how many women experience this and how many abusers are not convicted.

Many people who experience sexual assault do not report until much later or ever. In the US, there is a law known as the “Statute of Limitations” that outlines the length of time that can pass after a crime is committed before the person can no longer be prosecuted. The length varies for different countries and states. This allows for survivors to still have a chance at building a case if they feel the courage to do so.

In addition to requiring a great deal of courage, survivors must have strong financial backing if they want to bring their abusers to justice. Legal Price Guides reports that the average initial retainer fee for a case is $15,000-$18,000—and that’s just starting costs. This is a year’s worth of rent in cities like L.A. or N.Y.C. for most models. If a model has the money to go to court, there is no guarantee that their abuser will be sentenced to jail time or even be prosecuted. HG.org legal resources say, “Often the alleged perpetrator will accept a bargain of a lesser degree of punishment. Sometimes a defendant may receive no jail time but still be required to register as a sex offender.”

Although it is hard to bring these abusers to justice, there are resources, like Model Alliance, designed to help models heal mentally or secure legal assistance. Model Alliance is an organization founded in 2012 to ensure that models are treated fairly. Sara Ziff, the founder of Model Alliance says, “Our community occupies a powerful platform to campaign for transformative change. To affect change, we all need to have a voice in our work.” This alliance has developed a team of supporters to help guide models who have experienced abuse or assault. They have an email support hotline for models to securely share their story and their intentions for seeking support or legal action. This allows them to feel heard and supported, but also provides them with legal and mental health resources.

“Social media has been helpful in having survivors connect to each other and creating a support system for each other. It can help create conversations about this issue and bring awareness and make young women that are vulnerable educated on the dangers and how they can seek help,” Jill said.

As more people speak out about this negative culture on social media, more survivors can find healing, whether it be through therapy or legal action against their abuser. Hopefully, accounts like Diet Prada and Shit Model Management will continue to shine a light on this issue and share resources to help those who may be struggling with exploitation and sexual violence.

It’s important to remember the countless number of survivors among us. Let this serve as a reminder to empower them and uplift them. All survivors deserve healing. For all the survivors who had the strength to share their story—thank you. Your stories have educated some on this issue and inspired others to share stories of their own.

*Some names have been changed to respect anonymity of interviewees.