Reflecting on NYFW
The hectic, yet extraordinary whirlwind that is New York Fashion Week has come and gone. With small and big brands showcasing collections or presentations all day for six days, it’s next to impossible to narrow down the shows you should know about. Every designer has showcased their individuality and inspiration through every look and detail. So far there has been anxiousness and anticipation in the air from brands as it could be that NYFW has now come full circle with all shows in person to now deeply influence and feel wholeheartedly. A handful of shows so far have tried really hard to leave their mark with location, set design, and the iconic faces of models from then and now walking down the runway.
Christian Siriano
Source: Vogue Runway
Siriano was one of the first designers to kick off fashion week with the show held in an intimate and special location at Elizabeth Taylor’s townhouse where intimacy really was shared amongst guests in a packed house. Siriano gave more than enough with 46 looks, some being very classic and regal alongside campy looks with exaggerated accents like the red pillow-like hat that would be perfect for anyone role-playing a rose (and I mean that in the best way). Another look with strong accents is the white turtleneck dress with asymmetrical magenta ruffle tulle sleeves, which can definitely make some go crazy if not aligned. Among all the looks, Siriano left us with a lot to think about for days.
Proenza Schouler
Source: Vogue Runway
Proenza Schouler seems to be a staple to me when it comes to NYFW. This season, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough went in the direction of Latin design elements as Hernandez is Cuban and wanted to tap into his roots. The collection consisted of flamenco-like ruffles, waterfall and fringed sleeves, and the flowiness of wide bell bottoms as it all gives off a Latin taste with a modern twist. To also continue the involvement of Latin roots, the designers worked with a community of weavers in Bolivia, “we were able to make four pieces with them and employ them for six months. They were so happy.”
Fendi
Source: Vogue Runway
There is so much to cover in this Fendi show I don’t know where to start, so let’s go through all the staple information you should know from the show on Friday night.
Fendi already had people on their toes with the brand surprisingly showing at New York Fashion Week Instead of Milan for the first time. Although out of their element, Fendi also decided to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the brand's iconic Baguette Bag. Kim Jones alongside the creator herself Silvia Venturini Fendi in collaboration with Marc Jacobs. The Resort 2023 show was one of the biggest productions in New York Fashion Week as the show was held at the grand Hammerstein Ballroom in the Garment District.
For the anniversary and the brand’s collection overall, Kim Jones wanted to go in the direction of making the collection exciting and surely eclectic. “That does what fashion should do—bring pleasure to people,” says Venturini Fendi. Much of the collection had a lot of mismatching and layering which strongly reminded me of how we used to dress up as children, with no cohesiveness and putting on anything we can find for fun—which I weirdly liked. There was a decent amount of shimmer and sequins in the collection which Jones mentioned, “I was thinking about when I was first coming to New York and we would go out clubbing.” Marc Jacobs was involved in the Resort 2023, as his part of the collection includes his recognizable block lettering in the neon robe and tracksuits as seen on Bella Hadid in all teal.
Source: Vogue Runway
To switch gears to the important topic at hand—the Baguettes. Besides the actual bags that were carried by models, there were many other Baguettes that were sewn into the clothing that was slightly hidden as we play the game of “How Many Baguettes Can You Spot?” There are mini Baguettes seen on beanies, caps, skirts, coats, jackets, minis attached to a big Baguette, and even socks!
Source: Vogue Runway
Besides the collection, the show was filled with celebrity guests like Sarah Jessica Parker who put the Baguette Bag on the map on Sex & The City which is why Jones decided to do the show in NYC. Truly saving the best for last and leaving viewers in awe, was the iconic supermodel Linda Evangelista. She came out at the end for a bow wearing a Tiffany blue cape and the ultimate Baguette Bag in sterling silver.
Source: Vogue Runway
Altuzarra
Source: Vogue Runway
Altuzarra’s show was like a story as the looks gradually started to change. The collection started off with every day looks like drawstring dress shirts, blazers, cable knit sweaters, and mini skirts that give office preppy attire at the top with street style casual at the bottom. As the story goes on, the collection then turns its focus on denim, fitted yet stretchable dresses, and about 90% of the models wearing dad running sneakers. This addition dressed down the looks making room for more ability in being comfortable in day-to-day wear.
The journey continues in the collection as the looks start to loosen up with a mix of colors and tie-dye print to where the collection becomes free flowing as creativity flushes in easily. Altuzarra described it as the “idea of a trip and nature as an entry point for psychedelic experiences.” The use of tie-dye is not often seen on the runway but it is used in a sophisticated manner with color schemes and symmetrical patterns which led to a boho street style moment. Towards the end of the collection, Altuzarra presented timid and deep craftsmanship in the last few looks with tie-dyed parkas embellished with large and small paillettes. Overall, we were able to see what goes on inside the mind of the designer as you go through the psychedelic journey using fashion.
DIon Lee
Source: Vogue Runway
It seems that Dion Lee can be considered as a “that girl” brand but really it’s for those who just gets it. Looking at past seasons Dion Lee always catered to nightlife but this season there was a mix of both that could easily turn from day to night which anyone could appreciate for convenience and maximum use. For me, I get a strong sense of high fashion dystopian from the collection as it is futuristic while also connecting to nature with shapes and cutouts that effortlessly align with the body.
“I like to place things on the body in a way that relates to the structure of our form,” says Lee. It’s important in fashion to not only focus on the clothes but also bring in the value of the body form as well; the connection is what allows viewers to feel the energy. I can’t go without mentioning the incorporated monstera leaf shape that appears as a dress but most intriguingly as an accessory that looks like leg warmers, or even a shield for the nature connection. It goes without saying that Lee presents sexiness in fashion but in a way that leaves you intimidated.
Prabal Gurung
Source: Vogue Runway
Prabal Gurung releases the authentic wild side in this collection as the designer did a 180 from what he usually designs, where in this season he colored outside of the lines. Gurung based this collection on the vibrance of the youth and the party culture where there is a constant celebration, individuality, fun, and sexy messiness that goes with the current youth in the nightlife scene.
“Spring 2023 is a celebration of people who are often unseen but monitored, watched, scrutinized,” says Gurung. Gurung describes this as “the misfits” and the party motif is seen with the tight mini skirts, latex, feathers, a colorful palette, strappy heels, and sheer pieces. They’re titillating and powerful which is a staple for the expert partiers. The message can relate to women who have a night out and want to be seen but nothing more.
Here as I reflect on the first few days of NYFW, I’ve only just scratched the surface. It can be quite hard to keep up in early September but with so many resources you can always go back for inspiration or just to look through some of the best craftsmanship.