New York Fashion Week: The A/W '24 Recap
New York Fashion Week is always a fully packed, fast-paced seven days. With nearly 100 brands showing their Autumn/Winter 24 collections this February, it is easy to feel a little lost in this sea of runways. Fret not and look no further–here is your SparkNotes version of New York Fashion Week!
The Opening Show: Helmut Lang
This year, Fashion Week began on February 9th with designer Peter Do showing his second collection for Helmut Lang, entitled “Protection vs Projection.” Do capitalized on the concept of protection with elements like leather, bubble wrap, and face coverings included in looks that show very little exposed skin. Paired with a severely neutral color palette, these elements created a futuristic aesthetic. The Helmut Lang A/W 24 collection would fit seamlessly into the dystopian movie craze of the 2010s.
The Debuts
According to Vogue Business, there were ten debut designers this season, with some more established names in the industry showing at New York Fashion Week for the first time. New names making the biggest impact included Bishme Cromartie, Câllas Milano, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin.
Similar to Peter Do for Helmut Lang, Bishme Cromartie also went futuristic with a collection entitled ‘The Batrix, inspired by the 1999 film, The Matrix. The collection featured mainly monochromatic looks with visually severe silhouettes detailed with various textures such as leather, tulle, mesh, and silk. You can see the full collection here.
Câllas Milano joins the ranks of the debut brands led by seasoned NYFW veteran, Derek Lam, as Creative Director. This season’s collection focuses on tailored suiting, featuring overcoats, trousers, vests, and blouses. Lam utilizes a checkered pattern throughout the collection to complement the structured shapes that are classic to suits. View the full collection here.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin is already well established in Europe as a consistent figure in Paris Fashion Week, but this season de Saint Sernin makes an American debut in association with The Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. Ludovic de Saint Sernin presented a collection with a markedly darker color palette than many other brands as well as edgier, close-fitting silhouettes. The collection also featured minimalist floral elements as an ode to Mapplethorpe’s iconic flower photography.
Puppets & Puppets: The Epilogue
Among the many new brands that have presented collections this season, there is also a brand that has presented its last collection. Puppets & Puppets designer Carly Mark is taking a hiatus from ready-to-wear as a result of the unmanageable expenses that come with the fashion industry.
The final Puppets & Puppets collection featured many opposing looks–some with warm fur coats, and others with scant mesh shirts–that are representative of the brand’s strange and alternative aesthetic.
According to Fashionista, the show itself was somewhat metaphorical as “models were gripping parts of the clothing to keep the looks together” as they walked down the last Puppets & Puppets runway.
The Closing Show: Thom Browne
Thom Browne closed out Fashion Week on quite an ominous note. The collection was almost entirely in black and white with heavy, bold fabrics ultimately themed around The Raven by Edgar Allan Poe. According to Vogue Runway, Browne took some liberties with the theme with the inclusion of designs reminiscent of insects (equally unsettling and still very Poe-themed in my opinion). It is clear from past shows that Browne has a penchant for theatrics, but this collection truly made an impression with its surreal and creepy looks–one of the most iconic being a jacket emblazoned with the word “NEVERMORE.”
Every season of NYFW always proves to be unique and complex–these are just some essential notes. Be sure to check out recordings of the runways mentioned here as well as the many other talented artists who presented their Autumn/Winter collections this season!
What was your favorite New York Fashion Week show? Leave a comment below!