Is Calvin Klein Here to Stay on the Runway?

Calvin Klein has been the pinnacle of American fashion since it was founded in 1968 by Klein and Barry Schwartz. The brand symbolizes fine tailoring and classic silhouettes. While the brand has been passed down from designer to designer over the ages, not one has been a woman until Veronica Leoni.

Through the years, Calvin Klein has remained extremely relevant. Marketing examples include “The Bear” actor Jeremy Allen White’s underwear campaign for Calvin Klein, which was pasted on billboards around NYC.

As we all know, Calvin Klein’s runways are iconic, but there has not been a runway since 2018, when Raf Simons left the brand. So when the brand announced its return to the runway, excitement and curiosity formed around the new creative director, Veronica Leoni.

Leoni is from Rome, Italy, and before designing, she studied fashion theory and philosophy. She has worked under many great designers. The most notable brands she’s been with are Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo, Céline, Moncler, and The Row.

While designing for others, Leoni also created her own brand, Quira, which approaches fashion in a “thoughtful, raw, soulful, and direct way.” Quira’s overall success made her an LVMH prize finalist in 2023.

The Calvin Klein runway show took place on February 7th at the brand’s headquarters in Manhattan. It was filled with A-list celebrities such as Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and Calvin Klein himself. It is hard to pick up a brand that hasn’t shown a collection in years, but to have the man who founded it sit in the front row and judge is even harder.

Leoni’s designs drew from the classic Calvin Klein look of chic minimalism, paying homage to the brand’s classic history. The clothes were tailored to perfection, creating symmetrical silhouettes and stunning draping.

Soft textures and fabrics such as wool, silk, and cotton were used in the collection. Minimal and muted colors were used the most, except for the occasional pinks, blues, reds, and golds. As a viewer, you can tell the colors played an important role in giving the looks a backstory and soul.

Every article of clothing and each accessory was created and styled with intention. Leoni took Calvin Klein’s classic 90s look and twisted it with modern aspects to make a truly beautiful collection. I feel it is safe to say this six-year hiatus paid off, and the world is looking forward to more of Veronica Leoni’s designs in collaboration with Calvin Klein.