A Legend Returns: Dries Van Noten Collaborates with Christian Lacroix

Much can be said about Paris Fashion Week. Shows like Valentino, Maison Margiela, Paco Rabanne, Marine Serre, Loewe, and others, always draw crowds and generate buzz. But one of the most talked-about moments was Dries van Noten bringing Christian Lacroix back to the runway.

The collaboration from the South of France’s opulent king and Belgian’s eccentric pattern lover was received with both shock and delight. Van Noten combined his signature silhouettes with Lacroix’s gorgeous prints. The result? An unforgettable collection, with many begging for the return of Lacroix.

Van Noten, while researching the designs of his S/S 2020 collection, realized that his vision was similar to Lacroix’s previous work. Van Noten was trying to interject more grandeur staples of Lacroix. After meeting at the behest of Van Noten, Lacroix confessed that he was a customer of the designer. The two coming together was a magical harmony.

Christian Lacroix showcased his creativity and pushed the boundaries of design through his eponymous label. Lacroix’s abilities at Jean Patou delighted LVMH so much that they gave him his own brand in the late ‘80s. His historical references and dramatization of clothing were second to none, but it was more reminiscent of a couture house than a ready-to-wear line. All too often, designer brands are reinventing ways to appeal to the mass market and commercialism of it all. However, Lacroix said to hell with it and created pieces of art; many still covet and fawn over those designs today. Lacroix was never concerned with such matters. The Christian Lacroix brand was sold by LVMH in 2005. Lacroix then left his position as Artistic Director in 2009. He has since gone on to focus on costume designs, which are more suited for his talents than ready-to-wear.

Source: Vogue Runway

The S/S 2020 collection began with a blank slate of white pants and a tailored black shirt; a sort of calm before the storm. Soon after, the runway was full of clashing patterns and big opulent skirts, reminiscent of Marie Antoinette, with similarities to silhouettes seen at Rick Owens and Loewe. One model strutted down the runway in a tailored trench coat in an orange coral floral print. Lacroix’s signature “le pouf” made many appearances via massive 80s inspired shoulders. The sleeve ruffle sleeved dress and black satin skirt are sure to be a hit to Van Noten’s clientele, who are obsessed with the modern flamboyance of his work. The mixing of their prints never crosses the line of being too over the top, but ensure that it’s just enough to draw you in.

Most designer collaborations can often come about from streetwear and high end brands, such as Supreme, Kith, Louis Vuitton and Versace. However, the merging of two men’s idea who mirrored each other in some ways was a refreshing take on the collaborative end. Typically, the two voices of the brands are contrasting, but Van Noten and Lacroix worked in-sync to create something one of a kind. The collection did not detract from each other’s aesthetics, but instead added to the arsenal of each other’s design abilities.