Best SS21 Womenswear: New York, London, Milan, and Paris
Source: Elle
Fashion week across the world was handled a little bit differently this year. Formats for runways ranged from digital fashion shows to live shows with limited audiences and every combination in between. While some designers opted not to have a show at all, others decided to send out PR packages with full campaign photos. In this unprecedented time, lockdown truly gave creative directors and designers an opportunity to think outside the box, while others were forced to reckon with limited time constraints and traveling restrictions.
In no particular order, here are the 6 best fashion shows for the major fashion capitals:
New York
Source: Vogue Runway
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Christopher John Rogers, The Row, LAQuan Smith, Tory Burch, Khatie, Zimmermann
Christopher John Rogers: Christopher John Rogers expanded on his distinct glamour aesthetic to include different interpretations of what glamour means; he expanded on it with a crayon-meets-high-fashion concept.
The Row: The Olsen twins went back to the basics in regards to colors and silhouettes with their chic tailored outfitting, a necessity for Zoom meetings.
LaQuan Smith: LaQuan Smith brought the ‘80s into modern-day with corset tops and cutouts that are sure to be seen on the Kardashian-Jenner clan soon.
Tory Burch: Tory Burch tackled a new aesthetic that was more reminiscent of simple, clean lines and an emphasis on utilizing finer quality materials to create a minimalistic collection.
Khaite: Catherine Holstein confronted our pandemic reality head-on with a no-frills, dark, and moody tone with an uncomplicated collection of jeans, leather jackets, and combat boots.
Zimmermann: Nicky Zimmermann took us on a dream trip to Australia with botanicals and nature as the major focus for the feminine brand’s spring wares.
London
Source: Vogue Runway
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Christopher Kane, Erdem, Simone Rocha, JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Art School
Christopher Kane: Like the rest of us, Christopher Kane took up painting during quarantine, and many of his paintings ended up on a vibrant collection of skirts, jackets, and dresses.
Erdem: While Erdem Moralıoğlu is known for floral extravagance, his encompassing looks this season could just as easily be found on a number of British literary heroines such as Elizabeth Bennet or Emma Woodhouse.
Simone Rocha: If you time traveled back to the Victorian and Edwardian eras, Simone Rocha’s clothing would fit in seamlessly. The luxurious pearl and bows adornments and accessories in particular stole the show and our wallets.
JW Anderson: Who could forget Jonathan Anderson’s adorable paper doll playtime kit show? Puffed shoulders, asymmetrical tops, and quirky tailoring choices are seen across the printed cut-outs.
Molly Goddard: Molly Goddard showed that bigger really is better by overloading the senses with larger than life taffeta skirts, ruffles, and vibrant colors.
Art School: As one of the most talked about collections of London, Eden Loweth created a show with 35 models of different ages, genders, colors, sizes, and abilities. High waisted trousers, leather, corset dresses, trench coats, and A-line gowns donned the normalized non-binary brand.
Milan
Source: Vogue Runway
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Fendi, Valentino, Versace, Marni, Boss, and Prada
Fendi: As Silvia Venturini’s last solo Fendi collection before Kim Jones joins the Fendi Maison, she reflected on life in quarantine and took on the motif of seeing the outdoors and connection to nature through a window for a light and airy feel.
Valentino: While Pierpaolo Piccioli is most recognized for his massive, ethereal couture red carpet looks, the designer showcased his versatility with a more subdued chill collection that still screams elegance to the max.
Versace: Donatella Versace created a collection that evokes the same insanely sexy clothing as her brother Gianni, but with an underwater twist; even Princess Ariel would be jealous of these looks.
Marni: Francesco Risso reconstructed Marni archival pieces and put them back together in an updated collection of unraveled knitwear, tank top dresses, and leather pieces just waiting to be creased.
Boss: Ingo Wilts took a look back at the brand’s previous cult-favorite pieces to make a relaxing but still well-tailored collection of loose-fitting trousers and slouchy jackets.
Prada: For Raf Simons’ debut co-collection with Miuccia Prada, the duo looked to Miuccia’s personal uniform as a source of inspiration to create a base collection of slender trousers, cut-out sweaters, and a re-emergence of Prada’s iconic “ugly” prints from 1996.
Paris
Source: Vogue Runway
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Schiaparelli, Miu Miu, Maison Margiela, Loewe, Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten
Schiaparelli: Daniel Roseberry did a modern take on the surrealism that Elsa Schiaparelli is famous for, calling the collection “psycho chic.” While accessories such as enamel eyeglasses, gold nose and mouth masks, and talon fingers stole the show, the clothes contained prints reminiscent of Manet and Degas.
Miu Miu: Ironically, Miuccia Prada created a series of youth uniforms that many are no longer required to wear because schools are closed or remote. The collection of mini skirts would make Catholic nuns scream, while the track jackets and tennis dresses are a sports-lover’s dream.
Maison Margiela: Setting the scene of a South American gothic wedding gone wrong, John Galliano created a whimsical dark world easily escapable from our current horrific circumstances. Gauze wedding dresses, ‘40s suits, and silky skirts all come to life in the accompanying Argentinian tango video.
Loewe: Jonathan Anderson put out a collection evoking Spanish and Dutch master painters. The big takeaways: balloon pants and sleeves as a form of armor, clouds of taffeta and chiffon, and layers upon layers of Broderie Anglaise.
Acne Studios: Jonny Johansson took on the Swedish spirituality of the moon (yes, like “Midsommar”) in a breezy tone with shiny, metallic, and lustrous textures found everywhere. Slouchy tailoring, washed linen, and distressed dresses would make anyone join his cult.
Dries Van Noten: Dries Van Noten, the Belgian pattern king, has struck again—this time creating a joint men’s and women’s collection of Bermuda shorts, cotton jackets, and prints with “psychedelic sun, sunshine and moons, light bars, and palm trees.”