Let Them Eat... Moschino!
Source: Vogue
Have you ever wanted to travel back in time to attend a royal ball? One where you cinch your waist out of existence to wear an elaborate gown? No… just me? Jeremy Scott’s Fall 2020 RTW collection for Moschino took inspiration from Marie Antoinette and 18th century France. You’ve probably seen these dresses all over Instagram—the actual decorative cakes and mini pannier dresses, all adorned with wigs so tall they could’ve had an entire show to themselves.
I’ve always heard about Marie Antoinette, but never knew the history behind the fashion. Jeremy Scott claims the collection was inspired by the French Revolution because of the parallels between now and then in terms of political chaos. Even in those times, Marie Antoinette represented glamour with her bold fashion. So, let’s watch some Les Miserables and travel back in time to the 80’s! The 1780’s that is.
The Original Pannier
“18th Century fashion is elaborate, classy and sophisticated, but oh boy was it uncomfortable,” HistoryDaily states. This is a traditional pannier dress worn to formal occasions within the royal court. What’s special about these dresses are the fabrics. Panniers were made to be wide in order to showcase the elaborate designs that would otherwise be hidden if the dress was narrower, and closer to the wearer’s figure.
Though the dresses are referred to as panniers, those are actually the undergarment. These side hoops were worn under dresses to show the details of the intricate designs. They were flat across the front and back, and were sometimes constructed to be as wide as several feet on each side. In addition to the panniers, corsets were worn to snatch that waist right up, and further accentuate the shape of the dress.
Source: HistoryDaily
miss antoinette
Marie Antoinette was known for wearing pannier dresses. “[She] has also been exalted as a pinnacle of fashion and beauty, with obsessive scholarship on her choices in wardrobe and jewelry…” Biography claims. It’s no surprise that the most fashionable Queen is known for the most extra dress style. I’ve included a portrait of Marie Antoinette in one of her famous gowns, next to Kirsten Dunst who plays her in the 2006 biopic. Antoinette is known for the famous line, “Let them eat cake,” which refers to her response about the poor having no bread. However, evidence shows that she never actually uttered these words. Still, the phrase itself is iconic, and remains a trademark of the era—even if the origins are insensitive.
the royal moschino show
Moschino is known for being an over-the-top and animated brand. For this collection, the models walked down the runway to the soundtrack from the Marie Antoinette film, Fashionista notes. The dresses range from pink cakes and panniers, to more menswear inspired pieces, like the ones pictured below. The collection is full of color and variety! Scott says, “If it ain’t baroque, don’t fix it!”
13.7k Likes, 125 Comments - Jeremy Scott (@itsjeremyscott) on Instagram: "⚜️ ROCOCO ROCK N ROLL ⚜️ @MOSCHINO 📸 @MARCUS_MAM"
“All I can do is offer respite,” said Scott. “Even if you continue to fight, you need that moment of joy. We all need something uplifting. My role on this earth has only ever been to spread joy and bring happiness.”
It’s a crazy time right now, and even though we can’t go back in time, we can reminisce about the wonderful style through this collection. 18th century France was the epicenter for fashion and all things high-class.
“Paris [is regarded as] the world headquarters of taste. ‘Paris is the world,’ crowed Marivaux in 1734, ‘the rest of the earth is nothing but its suburbs.’”
This exuberance was contradicted with the poor economic and social conditions that led to the French Revolution. Is Jeremy Scott comparing the political turmoil of the world with that of 1780’s France? If so, his collection calls for a near return to extravagance! Maybe Moschino’s Fall 2020 RTW collection is a sign of hope—hope that fun in fashion is still alive, that we can have our cake and eat it too!
