The Four Collections From Paris Couture Week 2022 You Need To Know About
In the four days of Paris Couture Week, 15 designers had physical runway shows including six digital-only events and seven physical presentations. The couture shows showcased strong and memorable collections that felt refreshing to fashion lovers. Specific collections gained major popularity on social media as they stood out with their silhouettes, movements, textiles, textures, and details. Each garment evoked emotion and sparked creativity, along with a storyline, deeply curated and gravitating—leaving viewers in awe. From observations, responses, and design, here are four notable Paris Couture Week collections you should know about.
Schiaparelli
Source: Vogue Runway
Couture week started off with a bang when Italian couture house Schiaparelli was first to show and set the bar magnificently high. Taking place at Petit Palais in Paris, Creative Director Daniel Roseberry named the collection “An Age of Discipline,” narrating how the pandemic affected the fashion industry and echoing the shift in attitude and draining feeling from the past few years. Roseberry wanted the collection to have drama but not in common ways. With large volume, color, and use of fabric, Roseberry felt that strong bright colors and large shapes were not appropriate considering the message embedded within the collection.
He was able to achieve the classical flare by only incorporating black, white, and reformulated signature Schiaparelli gold. When it came to design, Roseberry expressed that he was inspired by “the heavens as a place to escape from the chaos of our planet, but also the home of a mythical high priestess.” The collection surely felt heavenly with the architectural gold elements, while still keeping the collection incredibly modern with slick geometric shapes.
This collection is truly exciting and unlike anything seen on the runway in a long time. Schiaparelli moves the audience—that is Roseberry’s goal at the end of the day. “There are designers who make clothes because they love the craft because they love people…But I design in order to make people feel something,” he mentions.
Alexandre Vauthier
Source: Vogue Runway
French designer Alexander Vauthier came prepared and showed up in full force this couture season. The collection continues to include the designer's signature elements of ruffles and sharp shoulder lines. The show has it all, with a mix of modern, classic styles, and old glam. Vauthier brings the 20s’ and 40s’ Hollywood glam to the runway with looks that are ever so timeless. A long-sleeve high-neck teal sequin dress includes elegant old red carpet style, but with cut-outs along the side to maintain a sexy modern-women look.
A loose ruffle white dress with art deco sequin detailing holds true to the 20s’, resonates with the revolution of women's clothing. Accompanying the dress is an unmissable diamond coin purse—the cherry on top. The power suit is still going strong at Vauthier’s shows, with emphasis on power with sharp shoulder pad action. Exactly 33 looks on the runway were all it took for Vauthier to achieve a nicely executed balance between glamor and clean-cut modern designs.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Source: Vogue Runway
As Jean Paul Gaultier came to fruition in front of the audience, it’s safe to say that just witnessing the show was an experience in itself. JPG brought one of the strongest collections of this year's couture week. The collection consisted of 36 looks, each distinct from the previous, all connected by details and motifs. The collection consisted of four main pillars: tulle, lace, cinched waists, and heavy drapery. Guest couturier Glenn Martens mixes together Gaultier’s signature design elements with his own brand, Y/Project. The rosé color corseted gown represents 18th-century women’s wear that can easily be placed in today’s society.
Corsets are still more popular than ever according to Glenn Martens with the majority of the collection including the cinched waists corseted shape, accompanied by modern choices like zebra print and signature JPG lining. Martens uses tulle for layered draping which looks simple, but extremely delicate, creating movement. But of course, the pieces that deserve the most mention were saved for last; the emerald green and blush gowns with multilayered intense draping. The gowns showcase liveliness and evoke emotion with their depth.
Elie Saab
Source: Vogue Runway
Even during stressful and uncertain times, Lebanese designer Elie Saab always brings whimsical, bright, and high-energy designs on the runway. With every show, the designer brings drama and intense color, and this couture season Saab still managed to do that while presenting refreshing looks. There is no doubt that the looks are eye-catching, with flower-like detailing on transparent gloves, as if the flowers are connected to the models.
Saab manages to design pieces that are delicate yet intense, easily pairing the two concepts together. The collection gives off a fairytale feeling and screams spring with floral appliqués, rhinestones, and feathers. Look three embodies this story, with leafy appliqués showing a connection to nature. Upbeat energy and inspiration always seem to be Eli Saab’s goal with every collection.
These four collections from Paris Couture Week are both refreshing and reawakening as we go straight into 2022. As the world has been in the dark due to the pandemic, fashion has greatly been affected and shifted. In this new year, the fashion industry has been seeing the light as inspiration and innovation revives, leaving customers to absorb this and move in a strong and uplifting direction. With the concepts and trends seen in these shows, I’m excited to see how the fashion industry will evolve for the rest of the year.
Which was your favorite collection from PCW? Leave a comment below.